Pittsburgh to Washington DC via Bicycle.

This trip was from a repeated desire of our friends, Jim and Sonya, to ride the entire GAP and C&O Canal trails that start in Pittsburgh and end in Washington DC. After about 6 years of doing long weekends in Confluence to ride the GAP trail I learned to enjoy the GAP trial with its nearly continuous canopy and beautiful scenery. Although not a big fan of packed stone trials I learned to be more accepting of the GAP trial from these trips. The C&O trial turned out to be a different story.

In the early morning Kathie and I packed up our rental car with our hybrid tandem and luggage for the week and drove to Western Pennsylvania. At about 10:00 we arrived at Jim and Sonya’s house where we caught up a bit, then Jim lent us his car so that Kathie could follow me to the car rental return. We dropped off the rental car then found a wine store to pick up a few bottles for our trip and picked up some groceries also. We grabbed some lunch and returned to Jim and Sonya’s.

After visiting for a while, Paul and Jody (our third tandem couple) arrived. After talking with Paul and Jody for a while Jim and I drove to the airport to pick up our forth tandem couple (Bob and Kay) at the airport.

We returned to Jim and Sonya’s where they put on a great dinner for the group.  After dinner and more visiting we all retired for the night.

Day 1 - Boston  to Confluence | PICS | MAP

On Sunday morning we got up and had breakfast at the Jim and Sonya’s and loaded our bikes and luggage into our sag vehicle and an extra truck. Jim’s son, Mike came to help chauffeur our bikes to the starting point in Boston, PA. After unloading the bikes and getting a few starting pictures we were on our way. Bob and Kay were driving SAG and the rest of the party was pedaling east.

Our first section started in Boston and ended in Connellsville. Along the way we traveled through several small western Pennsylvania towns including West Newton.  We stopped to take in the train station in West Newton and to check out the Layton Tunnel. When I first saw the tunnel and bridge that fed into it, I thought this was an abandoned tunnel. The bridge was very rusty and didn’t look very trustworthy. Much to my surprise we started hearing cars crossing the bridge and into the tunnel.

We soon arrived in Connellsville where Bob and Kay had parked the SAG vehicle along the trail. We looked for a place to eat and found Peanut’s Pizza where we ordered sandwiches and returned to a park on the trail to eat lunch.  While waiting for lunch to be prepared we visited the bike shop across the street.

The next section of our ride ended in Confluence. Jim and Sonya and Kathie and I were familiar with this section of the trail so Jim and Sonya drove the SAG to Confluence. On the way we stopped to take in the beautiful forest and river scenery along the way. One stop was Big Bend which was a small curve in the trail that exposed a great view of the river valley below. Here we always take group pictures. Not too long after Big Bend we started getting close to Ohiopyle which is a very popular town on the trail. The closer we got to the town the more congested to trail got with tourists. There were many families biking and hiking the trail. Luckily we got through the crowds and Bob and Kay and Kathie and I stopped in Ohiopyle for Ice Cream.

We finished our day at the Parker House in Confluence. This is where we stayed for our long weekends and it has become a favorite place to stay. Upon arriving we were met by Mary, who owns and runs the Parker house. We noticed a new bike storage shed behind the house and several other updates since our last visit.  Mary asked us if we had picked up a fifth couple. It seems that someone called late for a room and she asked if they were part of our group. The man said yes, we think to make sure he didn’t get left out of a room. As it turned out that the couple were a father and daughter (Mark and Erin) that were doing the entire trail as a summer adventure. They were from the North Hills in PA and headed toward Sterling in VA. One town a few towns from Jim and Sonya and the other a few towns from Kathie and me.

Mark and Erin were one of three or four groups that we kept meeting along our trip. This was part of the fun of the trip, repeatedly running into others taking the trip.

After settling in Jim went to the local barbecue joint for our dinner. We all enjoyed our dinner and time together at the Parker House, then retired for our night’s sleep.

Day 2 - Confluence to Cumberland | PICS | MAP

One of my favorite parts of staying at the Parker House is having breakfast at the Sisters Café. This is a diner that is a throwback to times forgotten. Big portions of great breakfast fare at a good price. We all arrived and discovered the "locals" table was empty. The locals usually fill up the table on weekends. This includes Brad who runs the Confluence Cyclery. We were told (by Jim) that the locals wouldn’t be in on Monday so took their table. Later Brad and a few others locals walked in and looked somewhat disappointed that we took their spot. 

The Sisters Café makes great pancakes that are intimidating because of their size. They truly fill up a dinner plate. A standard order comes with 2 pancakes, so I talked Kathie into sharing a plate with me. When the order came she only took a few bites and I was left eating the rest. We all enjoyed breakfast and headed back to the parker house to pack, settle our bills and started our way to Cumberland.

Kathie and I chose to SAG the first section of the day for two reasons. One, we had ridden this section several times before and two, the section included the Salisbury viaduct which is a long converted train trestle over a wide valley just west of Meyersdale that caused me to freeze in panic last year. There just seems to be something about the bridge the sets off my fear of heights.

Before we left the Parker House we got to meet Mark and Erin then Mary’s husband took a picture of the whole group in front of the house. Kathie and I started our drive. The GPS route to Meyersdale took us through Rockwood, another trail head on the trail. So we stopped to try and get fixings for sandwiches so that we could use up the left over barbecue from the night before for lunch.  We then went to the trail head where we stopped at the bike store on the trail. The store owner was working in the back and sent someone around to see if we needed anything. The guy let us in to browse and we then waited on the trail for the other riders to arrive.

While waiting a couple came through going west and talked to us while they were taking a rest. They were from Hagerstown, MD and were letting us know what the C&O trail had in store for us. Soon our group showed up. They stopped to rest and talk and Mark and Erin caught up with us again.

We finished visiting and started to Meyersdale again. On the way we ended up driving underneath the Salisbury viaduct and I had to stop to catch pictures from a safer vantage point. Then we finished the drive into Meyersdale and found the parking at the train station next to the trail. Across the street from the station was a new sandwich shop where we ordered sandwiches for some of our riders who wanted something other than barbecue for lunch.  We then found picnic tables near the train station and set up for lunch.

The train station has a great gift shop, miniature railroad, and local museum. Outside was a caboose on display. Soon all parties arrived and we had lunch and toured to station. This was also the point where Kathie and I started riding and Paul and Jodi took over the SAG duties.

The next section of our ride took us to Cumberland, MD. On the way we would be crossing the Eastern Continental Divide. This sounds like a big climb but the trail rarely exceeds a 1.5% elevation grade and makes for an easy ride. As we approached the divide we saw Paul and Jody walking toward it after having stopped at a trail head about a half a mile before the divide. They decided that their adventure would sound a lot better if the said that they walked up the Continental Divide.

The riders got to the top ahead of the walkers and we explored and took pictures at the underpass under the road that followed the ridge that defined the divide. Soon we were all together and took some more pictures and then went on our way.

On the way down the trail had several tunnels. The first was just a short distance before the Mason Dixon line which is the border between Maryland and Pennsylvania. This was the Savage Tunnel, the longest of the tunnels on the GAP trail. Even with flash lights, these tunnels can be a bit scary. You can see the other end but it is sometimes hard to know that you are square on the trail. We survived the tunnel to be greeted with a beautiful vista looking out into the valley.

We crossed the Mason Dixon line, got through the other tunnels and were soon on the section of the trail from Frostburg to Cumberland. This was unique because it was paralleled by a working train track. We didn’t get to see any trains running on our ride but knew we were close to finishing our ride for the day.

Our lodging for the night was the Fairfield Inn that sat right on the trail. We parked our bikes, checked in and got ready for dinner.  We found most of the places in town to be closed on Mondays but we found J&J Pizza and Pub that fit the bill for this nights dining.   After dinner we walked back the hotel and settled down for our next day of riding.

Day 3 - Cumberland to Hancock | PICS | MAP

On Tuesday, we got up to breakfast at the Fairfield and started on our first day of riding on the C&O Canal. We decided that dividing the SAG 4 ways might work out better as this would be a longer day of riding against a rougher surface on the C&O canal that would probably slow us down a bit. Bob and Kay picked up the first SAG for the day.

The first thing that slowed us down on the ride was the introduction of locks on the trail. This wasn’t an obstacle as much as it was a photo opportunity.  We stopped at the first few then started to realize that these were all too common and looked much the same.

Jim and Sonya picked up the second SAG that would finish just short of the entrance to the Paw Paw tunnel. When we got to the trail head the Orr’s had sandwiches waiting for us for lunch.  This was a nice park and we had a great lunch.  After lunch all 4 teams headed for the Paw Paw tunnel. This is the longest tunnel on both trails and was unique because it was a canal trail tunnel. This means that the river took such a crooked path at this point it was decided to be cheaper to tunnel through the mountains in the area that following the river.

Kathie and I got to the entrance to the tunnel last. We started riding through the tunnel, but it was so dark, narrow, and rough that we soon dismounted and walked the remaining half plus mile to the other end. Even walking was not a safe feeling. We eventually got to the other end of the tunnel were the others were waiting for us. Paul and Jody did ride the entire length of the tunnel and had to go back through again because they were the next couple to SAG. The decided to walk back.

The other couples pushed forward where the trail continued to be rough and uneven and even in the light of day, a bit scary. Soon we were back on the canal path. The canal path was becoming more and more covered with puddles.  Kathie and I were managing to stay ahead of the other couples, so much so that we stopped to wait for other to catch up with us. After a small wait Bob and Kay and Jim and Sonya showed up and Jim said that they lost their timing chain when a branch caught tangled on it. They put it back on then ran into another tandem couple who had the same problem. So they stopped to help this other tandem couple. We ran into this couple several times and learned that they lived in Wexford, a few towns from Jim and Sonya.

We got to the trail head where Paul and Jody ended their SAG and Kathie and I started ours. Before we left by car I mentioned to the others that there was parallel trail to the C&O coming up that was paved. Everyone was happy to hear about this because we were tired of hitting puddles and bumps all day.

Kathie and I drove to Hancock which was our stop for the night. As the planner of trips, I am always fearful of picking accommodation without seeing them first.  The 1828 Trail B&B was one of those places that I had to take on my impressions from the web-site. Kathie and I found the B&B and knocked on the front door. Darlene came to the door and was one of the sweetest people I had ever met.  She and her husband Bill ran the house and I was just fantastic. The house reminded us of our grandparent’s house. Bill and Darlene had fixed it up as a B&B and had done a great job. They had added several items just for cyclist, including a shed in the back for bikes and a hose to wash them down.

Kathie and I went to the bike store near the trail and I bought a replacement tube for the one I had used earlier that day. Soon we saw the tandem couple from Wexford come off the trail and said that our group was not far behind. We waited for about 15 minutes and our group showed up. I gave them directions to the B&B and then followed them up the hill. There we unloaded the SAG van, cleaned our bikes and stowed them for the night.

We settled in, showered and had a quick wine and cheese hour were we decided to go to Weaver’s for dinner. This was a family restaurant down the street that had great pies.  We had a nice meal, walked back to the house, sat in the parlor for a while then retired for the night.

Day 4 - Hancock to Shepherdstown | PICS | MAP

Breakfast at the 1828 was great and even the menu was tailored knowing that we were riding that day. As we were eating a rain cell came through and caused a normal concerns for the days ride. We held off leaving till after 9 and luckily the rain cleared by then. We started on the remaining 10 miles of the Western Maryland Trail, the paved trail the paralleled the C&O. This trail ended after 8 or 10 miles and we took a side street the get us back on the C&O.  We found the entrance to the C&O but the gate was closed and because it was closed,  we thought it couldn’t be the right place. So we continued on the road and ended up at the entrance to the park for Ft. Frederick. We stopped at the visitor center and the ranger told how we should have gone through the gate back where we saw it, but that we were back on track. At the park we stopped in to see the Fort that is a 1758 era structure that was restored along with a few of the buildings inside it. There were two guides in the fort that were wearing period dress and were very informative about the fort. We explored the fort and continued on our trip.

The rain from the night before made the trail even more saturated with puddles. We pushed on and got muddy and our second flat. This time the flat was on front tire and the puncture was a stone through the tire.

As we continued down the Potomac River, I started to notice sports motor boats on the river. I was wondering if the river would remain navigable all the way to DC. We soon came to a dam that answered that question. There are several dams along our trip.

We stopped at an old mill that was at the trail head that Paul and Jody used as the end of the first SAG of the day. There we ran in Erin and Mark again. Soon after starting again up we reached a section of the trail that was closed until this year. This in an area where the canal ran close to the river then got wash away over time. The trail also got washed away right up to the cliffs now at the river’s edge. The park service had a concrete ledge constructed to continue the trail. This was another portion of the trail that made me very nervous.

Bob and Kay had taken the SAG duties before lunch and as we got to Williamsport they found a Café that we all stopped at for lunch. After lunch I took my front wheel  to the local bike shop  to have the tire replaced.  The guy at the shop told me that I shouldn’t be using high pressure tires on the trail.  He replaced the front tire and I hoped the rear would hold out for one more day of riding.

After lunch we continued on our ride. Jim and Sonya took the last Sag section of the day. As the rest of us approached Shepherdstown Paul and Bob expressed an interest in going to check out Antietam Battle Field which was only a few miles out of the way. So we climbed out of the river valley and checked out the National Park. We checked out the displays in the visitor’s center then rode part of the car tour through the battle field.

After exploring, we rode down the hill into Shepherdstown and found the Comfort Inn where we would be staying for the night. Jim had scoped the place out and took us and our bikes to the do-it-yourself car wash behind the hotel. There we spray washed the mud off our bikes and then unloaded our luggage and settled in. We found a local Italian restaurant for dinner, then we went back to the hotel where we played a few rounds of Left Right Center, a dice game that Bob likes to play. He really liked this round because Kay won both games.

Day 5 - Shepherdstown to Leesburg | PICS | MAP

In the morning we ate breakfast at the hotel and got ready for our ride. Back on the trail it didn’t take long to arrive across the river from Harper’s Ferry. I was initially reluctant to consider crossing the river to visit the town because there is a spiral staircase to get on the bridge to get across. Bob and Paul checked out the staircase and decided that we could get the tandems up to the bridge. So we all worked on getting bikes up the stairs then walked across to the town. 

This was the first sign that I was getting close to home. I had at one time biked from my home to Harper’s Ferry and back on a club ride some years ago. The first thing that struck me about the town was how quaint and picturesque the town was. It was so close to my home and we rarely visit it. We checked out John Brown’s fortress, some of the shops and the much of the rest of town. On our way back out we ran into Mark and Erin for what would be out last encounter with them.

The puddles on the trail after Harper’s Ferry reached a peak. They were more frequent and deeper than at any other point on the trail. We next arrived at Brunswick which was our stop for lunch. Jim and Sonya covered the SAG to that point and found a café in an old converted church named Beans in the Belfry. We ordered sandwiches and ate at the tables on the sidewalk outside the Café.

We moved along as Bob and Kay took over the SAG duties. As we got started Jim and Sonya were riding with Kathie and I was we got our third flat for the trip. With help from Jim we got back on the road, passed Point of Rocks, then found Whites Ferry. This would be our transportation into Virginia.

For me, I was home. Getting into Leesburg from the ferry took me on roads that I frequently ride. I led Jim and Sonya and Paul and Jody through Leesburg. I even took them on a short section of the W&OD trail that is my usual trail to ride on. I got everyone to the Comfort Suites Hotel where Bob and Kay had scoped out how to clean our bikes and the hotel offered a conference room to store them.

Soon we got our showers and got ready for dinner. At 6:30 we gathered at the hotel shuttle to get a ride to the Tuscarora Mill Restaurant. There we had arranged to have five other couples that we all knew from our Pennywise Tandem Tours.These are the tours in Europe that we have done over the years. This was a great re-union for us and a great victory dinner for our last night of touring.

Day 6 -  Leesburg to Washington DC | MAP

On the last day we had breakfast at the hotel. Jim and Sonya decided to catch a rental car a day early and Kathie and I had planned to SAG the entire day because this was the simple way to get enough vehicles into DC to get People and Bikes out.

This left Bob and Kay and Paul and Jody to finish the C&O Trail. Meanwhile Kathie and I drove home to drop off some luggage and pick up our Highlander and our friends Dave and Julie to help us meet up with the others as they ended their ride. We drove three cars to Roosevelt Island on the Virginia side of the Potomac. Dave and Julie led us over the Key Bridge and onto the C&O trail where Kathie and I stopped at Fletchers boat house while Dave and Julie continued up the trail. Soon Paul and Jody and Bob and Kay arrived with Dave and Julie and we all took the Capital Crescent Trail into Georgetown.

The other couples told us about seeing Great Falls, which are beautiful falls on the Potomac and they got to see a working lock in action.

We found an Italian restaurant, il Canal in Georgetown near the end of the C&O where we had a great lunch and a fitting end to the ride. After lunch, there was one last ride to cap off the week. I led the others through the streets of DC, past the White House, the Washington Monument, and the Jefferson Memorial. We took the 14^th Street Bridge over to Virginia then the Mt. Vernon Trail back to Roosevelt Island.

There we gave the Bore’s their SAG vehicle back with Bob and Kay’s bike as well as their own. We packed our bike in Dave and Julies Van and Bob and Kay in our Highlander. We said goodbye to Paul and Jody, then we all drove back to Reston to further sort out luggage and say our goodbyes. We took Bob and Kay to their hotel and our weeks trip was complete.